A summary of our tour from Kappeln, Germany, to Kristiansand, Norway. Unfortunately, we hit a rock in Denmark and had to pull Tioga out for repairs in Aarhus, Denmark.
As we were lucky to find a nice group of people in Aarhus, we only lost three days. The new mast made it in one piece and the bad weather is already forgotten…
Should this YouTube video not run in your country, maybe this link works for you:
Below are a couple of photos of our crew that sailed from Kappeln, Germany, to Kristiansand, Norway:
We left Kappeln July 5th and sailed about 350nm to Kristiansand where we arrived July 12. Waiting out stronger winds south of Fyn, hitting a rock quite hard to take Tioga out of the water in Aarhus and dealing with decent westerly winds on the North Sea made for a sportive trip. We’ll publish the video of the Free-Fall later…
A BIG Thank You!!! for all your help and patience.
As always – click on the photos see more….
We arrived in Kristiansand in the middle of the day on Tuesday after a long 24hrs sailing upwind against the choppy Northsea swell.
It was nice to sail the last few miles in protected waters past lots of rocks, islands, light houses etc.
We managed to tie to the dock med-style and and settled in. There were boats from Finland, Sweden, Germany, Holland and Norway…
Facilities are good, internet sufficient and stores close by.
The new crew, Ernst and Don, arrived by train from Oslo in the evening and the 10 of us had a nice dinner in the cockpit.
Today, we had to say good-bye to the Fulghums, who left on the train to Stavanger. We will miss them dearly.
With a gale predicted for Thu, we are in a waiting pattern to move on.
Believe or not but we did have to use sunscreen today 😉
By 01:00 the large windfarm off of Anholt was in sight. It looked like a landing strip for aliens with all its white flashes etc.
By 03:30 we were past Anholt and reached Læsø by 09:00. With 8-9kn, we were going pretty fast in the SW wind.
Now at 14:30 we reached Denmark’s northern-most point, Skagen, where the Baltic sea meets the North Sea, and started preparation for the North Sea (we changed from large genoa to working jib in anticipation of almost 20kn from the west). We are surrounded by a surprisingly large fleet of freighters waiting out here.
We are planning for a about 24 hr crossing to arrive somewhere around Mandal.
The mood on board is good. All are catching up on sleep and are checking the charts even more frequently than before 😉
We are moving on!
The epoxy work is completed, the bottom paint dried and the inside checked.
We met wonderful people, enjoyed the well equipped and very clean marina, loved the free bikes and got a flavor of what Aarhus looks like. We would have liked to see more.
Wish us luck that we this time at least make it to Norway. We are hoping to make it to the south-west corner of Norway, somewhere close to Mandal (one of the formal ports of entry in that area).
Impressions in the Marselisborg marina:
The crew went to Tivoli today, the local amusement park, and came back quite energized. The highlight of their trip was the free drop from about 30m high. Watching some of their videos was quite impressive as they were truly falling down 30m unattached to anything. They were quite nervous getting up the tower and being dropped – however, the net at the bottom provide a soft landing.
In a way that sums up our experience this week overall as we seem to recover relatively softly after the initial deep fall…
The diagnosis for Tioga is that the impact with the rock not only indented the lead keel (which will be fixed with epoxy), but also temporarily deformed the hull enough to crack the old transducers in the bow (one will be patched from the outside, the other one removed and the whole filled with epoxy) and also created some stress around the bilge section (which we cleaned and refilled with epoxy as well).
All this work is manageable and is expected to be done by the middle of Sunday. With a little bit of luck, we can convince Peter to launch us on Sunday instead of waiting for Monday morning…
Apart from that the captain spent most of the day on business related activities and got more boatwork completed. With John’s help, the manual bilge pump was uninstalled and serviced and the injector setup on the diesel tightened. We’ll see if that stops the diesel leak.
After a meal on the boat, we went for a late walk to town, enjoying the lively and very nice city center of Aarhus (Denmark’s 2nd largest city with a population of about 320000).
If you look closely at the aerial below, you will find an very well maintained 12m boat, Vanity, tied to the dock
The 40 Kronas Philip found the next morning were a sign of more positive things to come:
- despite the very cold waster (12C) we managed to dive after Corinna’s glasses and actually found them
- the crane was indeed capable of lifting our relatively heavy boat (13t) and was available early Friday morning
- Peter who runs the crane also organized Kim, the local boat repair guy, who had a look at Tioga as soon as we came out of the water – so very good timing
- at first glance, you could tell that we hit the rock hard but that the damage was manageable
- rental bikes are free (all you need is a 20Kr deposit)
We settled down, took a deep breath and made the best of our stay.
The captain used the fast internet and got all his business-work backlog done.
The crew went on to leverage the free bikes, got the laundry done and enjoyed the very nice Marselisborg marina.
In memory of our arrival in France last year we had a nice dinner at the local creperia.
We had not found the silver lining yet, but our mood was much better than the day before.
We are sitting here in Aarhus, Denmark, wondering what all this means.
We woke at 3am to leave at 4am. The wind had calmed down and the sun rose to beautiful morning. After motoring initially, we had a fantastic sail navigating the Little Belt with perfect wind, lots of sunshine ( no rain at all) and a nice breakfast in the cockpit.
Maybe the broken bolt (1 of 4 holding the pedestal) was an omen. But we had seen plenty of these before. The intense smell of diesel after we killed the engine left us wondering, will there be more?
We removed the panel to find the diesel weeping from injector #1. While there, we noticed that the perfectly repaired sink was still leaking, dripping onto the motor.
The pinhole of sunlight shining through the sink basin made us realize that there was nothing wrong with the perfectly performed repair by the boatyard. We thought life was good after we filled the hole with epoxy and continued sailing under perfect conditions to windward of Middelfart 😉
This is where the big bang comes in that brought us back down to earth.
Big bang, as in hitting a rock so hard that we all almost fell over. We had diligently followed the paper and digital charts but somehow found another, maybe unchartered rock.
We quickly lifted the floorboards and things seemed fine. However, after closer inspection we found water seeping into the bilge. A new plan was needed.
Instantly, we decided to go to Aarhus, one of the larger cities with marine facilities to get the boat inspected.
Searching for a marina with a crane that could handle our boat, we got plenty of opportunity to practice maneuvering in tight quarters. We got into our slip just in time to see Germany lose in the semi-finals.
We are now sitting here in the cockpit with good friends and some wine, good kids etc and are wondering: What will the silver lining be?
PS: Did we mention that Corinna lost her 350$ glasses in the harbor…?
After leaving the marina (in the rain), we went to the fuel dock to learn that the pier was packed (at least two boats deep) and the fuel hose not long enough to teach us. Our maneuver to go stern to in between bows and sterns of all the others boats required quite a few hands, fenders and a lot of rain – and attracted quite a few spectators.
At the end we got it all done and motored down the Schlei (in the rain), prepared the boat and finally set sails in the Baltic Sea.
The strong SW got us to Denmark in no time. Even with frequent downpours it was a nice sail.
Unfortunately, the wind shifted to NW (right on the nose) at around 22:00 and increased to the low 30s kn. We therefore changed plans and anchored in the lee of Fyn.
The anchor held well and all enjoyed a nice breakfast in the morning with lots of sunshine, plenty of wind, but no more rain…
After 3.5 very long days, with very few mistakes, Kevin drove us to perform the miracle of putting the mast together and stepping it on Tioga.
We were very lucky as it did not rain yesterday when most of the outside work had to be done. Of course today is another story, but we managed to get the work done in between the showers….
Bills are paid, the fueldock is waiting and we have said our good-byes. Can’t wait to finally hoist the sails.
We changed to http://farkwar.com/boats/tioga for tracking, but are not sure if it works yet. You might be able to find us on Marinetraffic via AIS as well.
Our plan is to sail directly to Stavanger in Norway. Of course, the forecast for this afternoon is SW in the thirties! We’ll see how far we make it, of if we need to find shelter somewhere in Denmark.