Video – Bermuda to Nahant – Update with new soundtrack

Our final leg back home (after over 12,000nm) brought us from Bermuda to Nahant. We had left Tioga on a mooring in Grotto Bay and were happy the she had survived the serious (60kn+) winds during our absence.
We visited the America’s Cup village to watch race day 1 of the AC finals, spent a nice afternoon at the RBYC in Hamilton looking at the beautiful club house, their collection of half-model & trophies and watched team New Zealand win even more AC races.

The highlight before we left Bermuda was the J-Class regatta where for the first time ever 7 J-Class yachts raced against each other – quite a sight.
The sail home was pleasant, the Golf Stream crossing calm and sea live to the north of it plenty.
The nice welcome by our friends and family rounded of this final leg.

Updated video with different soundtrack that hopefully plays in the US as well:


Previous version that includes the song “Weather with you” from Crowded House and therefore does not play in the US:

Video – Antigua to Bermuda

We timed our departure from Falmouth Harbor to coincide with the Antigua Classic week. However, due to other preparations, the installation of the new alternator etc, we ended up only looking at extremely pretty yachts at their docks, rather than sailing with them out at sea. The hike up to Shirley Heights was another highlight.

We got our food in Jolly Harbor and sailed into the night to get to Barbuda – one of the most beautiful places we know in the area. A nice downwind sail under gennaker got us to St Barth’s the next day and we continued on to Bermuda from there.

Catching a yellow-fin tuna just south of Bermuda was another highlight of this roughly 1000nm leg. In Bermuda, a spectacular place in its own right, the preparations for the America’s Cup made for an even more memorable experience.

The crew from Bermuda to Nahant

Below are a couple of photos of those that managed to get a spot on the final leg home.

This was our by far longest adventure and made the return quite special. Combining that with the beautiful atmosphere of Bermuda, America’s Cup racing, J-Class regatta and perfect sailing conditions across the Gulf stream created a hard to beat package.

Due to the consistent south-westerly wind we made the almost 700nm trip in just under 5 days – a record for us; and that without much sweat or hard work.

Apart from the consistent challenge to fully charge our house bank and the ripped gennaker, we did not have any technical challenges and instead enjoyed the frequent whale and dolphin visits.

All is good on board of Tioga.

Dan Mc Mackin
Dave Liscio
John Fulghum
Josh Antrim
Peter Barba
Philip Kersten


Day 1 – the formal way to check out of country

We had a few items to do in the morning, checking out of customs, breakfast, last minute shopping, and retrieving the genoa from the sail repair shop. When we stopped to get breakfast the place was pretty crowded and we were seated with a local cricket legend, Leroy “Tubby” Richardson. Mr. Richardson will soon celebrate his 96th birthday. He filled us in on all the people in his small pocket photo album. When we mentioned how we are sailing back to the US, Mr. Richardson just said, “I’m a land rover”. Our errands complete we left the safe confines of St George’s Harbor around 11:30am to clear skys and gentle winds. The crew and boat are well prepared. We set the gennker and main and sailed lazily along. The sun became pretty hot and we set the fly to keep us our of the sun. Some of the crew took naps to get prepared for the upcoming night watches. An afternoon rain shower didn’t do much to cool us down. Dan prepared a delicious meal of salmon and steak with rice and salad
. We opened a nice bottle of Riojas to wash it down. The sun is setting, lifejackets are on, watch schedule has been reviewed and the Tioga crew is set for the first of the overnight sails. The sky is clear and we anticipate a carpet of stars to keep the crew busy looking for constellations and possible satellites.
As for our title, during our first sail to Bermuda in 2008 we were greeted by 2 young friendly customs agents. That added with a little rum set Dave to ask a simple request to have the official stamp “Entrance by Sea”stamped on his bald head. So to formally check out today, no rum needed, Dave once again stuck his head through the hole in the glass at the customs office and had his head stamped “Departure By Sea”!

The Majestic J-Class boats and a peculiar smell

Today half the crew went ashore early to get some actual work done. The remaining grew became concerned with a smell in the aft cabin. Was it hydrogen sulfide, plain old hydrogen, or hygiene. We were concerned that the batteries was giving off some gases that could mean we have faulty batteries. There was also a smell from the bilde pump out – were the two associated or just coincidence? A call to Don and Wally (McMackin Engineering’s finest) and the Balmar company put on the right track. After some testing and calibration we were satisfied we corrected any issues. Our new scent was more on
the lines of mountain fresh!
We left the comfortable confines of Grotto Bay and sailed out to catch the majestic J Boat races. The classics raced outside the harbor, but inside the reef. The classics are every bit as beautiful as when the robber barons and captains of industry raced them in the 1930s. This is thought to be the first time that 7 J class boats raced together. We sailed along the course and were able to see them round a mark and set their colorful spinnackers for the down wind leg. After the race we sailed for St. Georges Harbor where will make final preparations for the sail north to Nahant. Coral heads and shallows made for an interesting beat up the narrow channel.
We settled in for a few cold drinks and a swim then headed into town for a last great meal on terra firma. The wait for a table was long but was well worth the wait as we indulged in Wahoo and black grouper. We discuss our plans for the following morning with separate teams collecting the genoa at the sail repair shop, final groceries, and checking out at the customs office. The weather window looks promising and the crew is eager to cast off tomorrow.

Moments aboard Tioga on Father’s Day

What do six friends talk about while eating dinner in the cockpit of a sailboat floating in Bermuda?
We would tell you exactly the subject of those discussions, however, this is a family blog.

By the way, our crew is now complete. Pete and Dave arrived three days ago to start getting the boat ready, followed by Philip and John, then Dan and as of tonight Josh. We all know each other well so the barbs fly. It’s one of those welcome situations when you’d feel left out if nobody busted your chops.

For the first time in three days, we have more than two cubes of ice, which we know will make James Devereaux jealous back in Nahant. We’re drinking Dark and Stormies and there’s nobody here to keep track of how many rums we’ve had.
Besides, we’re not going anywhere. We’re livin’ the pirate life right now.Bathing in the salty sea, carrying jugs of water to the boat, buying groceries for our trip back to Nahant later this week.

All joking aside, it’s a lucky moment that we’ve landed here aboard Tioga, the elegant 44-foot Alden sloop that has carried crews all over the world.
Today was the second day of the America’s Cup races where America’s Oracle racing team got slammed by the Emirates New Zealand team.Some of us watched the action televised at the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club, where the action on the water was easier to see and understand because watching the race from the waterfront was simply too distant.

Today is also Father’s Day, and we’re six fathers all with children. So it’s odd that we’re not with our families, but this kind of adventure is important to us. It makes us brothers.We’ll always have this time to share and remember.
Luckily we also have more one thing in common: we all miss our families and appreciate their support of our thirst for high seas adventure.

The Kiwis Take Two

The Tioga Sailors get a front row seat to the greatest sailing spectacle.

Last night, Peter and Dave enjoyed a fabulous night of watching the sunset waiting for Captain Philip and John to arrive. Many flight delays in Boston and NY had the Captain and Johns arrival at sunrise this morning. Thanks to a friendly customs officer showing her true Bermudian hospitality- their hitchhiking to Grotto Bay was short lived. Dave left early to catch the photo/press boat and the rest tried to catch up on sleep. We got up and had a quick swim and left for the race. We arrived at the Hamilton Ferry dock only to find the next ferry would not get us to the race in time. Our luck changed when we approached a few Royal Bermuda Yacht Club sailing instructors who were heading to the race in their boat. They grabbed three extra life jackets and we were on our way. The spectator boats lined the course, copters flying over head, giant jumbotrons, and thousands of well healed, semi-sober, Rolex wearing, race fans were everywhere. We arrived just a few minutes before the start, and the major mis-queue by Team Oracle crossing the start line early. The day didn’t get much better for Team Oracle as they lost both match races. After the races we headed for Bone Fish for drinks and to find Uncle Dan – who was entertaining a group of US Coast Guardsman by telling old GI Stories – thankfully it didn’t include the Goat Joke. We then headed to the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club for a cold drink! We were awed by their silver trophies and half hull models. We retired to the Cedar Bar in the Club that was relocated from their original location about 85 years ago. Only True sailors would relocate a bar! The Club manager provided us with a little RBYC history. We headed back to Grotto Bay and the waiting Tioga. John was able to get his luggage that was presumed lost at some unknown airport between Boston and Bermuda. Cheese and salami nicely aged on the tarmac. Dave arrived at the dock shortly after and we are now settling in for a cool peaceful nights sleep. Tomorrow we’ll see if Team Oracle can post some sort of comeback.

The crew from Antigua to Bermuda

A few more photos of our crew that sailed from Antigua to Bermuda.

We started our journey with an immediate highlight, hiking up to Shirley Heights, and overcoming our first challenges, recovering Ellen’s bracelet and installing the alternator, before sailing around Antigua to Jolly Harbor.
All were extremely happy with the decision to stop over in Barbuda with one of the nicest beaches we know.
St Barth’s also did not disappoint although we barely had enough time to see it.

The easterly tradewinds carried us far north before they calmed down (we sailed 514nm in 3 days), gave us a chance to swim in 13000ft deep water and then forced us to run the engine for a while. The silver lining of the now full batteries was the fact that we did not have to use our hydro generator and therefore went fishing.
The yellow-fin tuna was another highlight of this roughly 950nm sail.

Of course, arriving in Bermuda is always a highlight. With the America’s Cup in town, this visit was even more special. The fact that we lived a resort life just because we were mooring next to Grotto Bay Resort put the icing on the cake.

We should do  this more often…


Doug Frauenholz
Ellen Christie
Philip Kersten
Roger Pasinski
Ulf Westhoven


Arrival in Bermuda

Is it the turquoise water, the sense of achievement after app. 900 miles of sailing, the America’s Cup catamarans, the rolling hills with the pastel colored houses and their typical white roofs, the history towns like St George’s or the Royal Naval Dockyard radiate, or just the fact that we reached the home of the Dark ‘n Stormies,…?

Either way,
after our exciting Tuna catch the day before, we finally got close enough to our favorite offshore destination, Bermuda, to see the Gibb’s Hill lighthouse in the distance. We connected with Bermuda Harbor Radio,  got approval to enter St George’s harbor through the famous cut at 3am and, as always, were impressed that Customs and Immigration’s would open for just us in the middle of the night.
We found a good spot in the anchorage, dropped off the genoa for repairs the next morning, went sightseeing and shopping in St George’s, visited the White Horse Tavern for a drink and got some diesel before the sail to our mooring in Grotto Bay.

Grotto Bay is the location of the Grotto Bay Resort (where Candice and Dan renewed their wedding vowels last year and the team met Nathan who runs a Catamaran charter company and also a small mooring business) and we were welcomed with open arms. Although we just rented Nathan’s private mooring, were treated as if we were part of the resort, had a nice dinner in one of their restaurants, enjoyed the facilities, their internet and of course the bar at the pool.

While the captain focused on his business work, the crew enjoyed caves, visited Hamilton, took the ferry to the Royal Naval Dockyard, watched the America’s Cup catamarans practice (can you spot Ben Ainsle or Dean Barker on the photos?) and more.

Of course, we had to pay a visit to the Swizzle Inn (which is in walking distance from the resort) to sample the Rum Swizzles (their signature drink), have dinner, leave our names on the ceiling and watch the Captain publicly confirming that he was Spartacus (as part of the nightly entertainment games that were organized by an energetic musician who sent a Viking Helmet through the audience).

A perfect leg came to a perfect end.
We’ll be back to Bermuda soon to continue our journey…

Final approach to Bermuda and a fish story

The wind died in the middle of the night and we comfortably motor sailed to stay on schedule . Everyone slept well especially the midships crew with the minimal heel. No one was jammed into their leecloths. Another beautiful day and we were welcomed into the pre Bermudean waters by a couple of graceful Bermuda longtails. The next welcome was not quite so welcoming- multiple Portugese Man of War jellies with their clear floating Mohawk like “sails” and lots of poison amo below. We saw about 20 and quite close to our boat. Phillip had the courageous idea of trying to bring one on board for closer inspection. So bucket fishing he went. The rest of the timid crew scrambled to find the Marine Medicine textbook and bone up on the lifethreatening symptoms and the best possible treatment. For most jellies, vinegar is the best way to neutralize the toxin release. But the PMOW is an exception and so warm water at 45degrees C is your best bet. After the warm water, if the person is in s
hock, Epipen can help. Then you transfer to a hospital for an anti-venom infusion. We wondered whether Bermuda EDs had that in stock. Thankfully, Phillip’s bucket attempts were unsuccessful. We suspect that Ulf, who was at the wheel, had the wisdom to steer the boat close enough to the jelly to make Phillip believe he was helping, but never allowed a catch.

However, the story of Phillip’s fishing did have a happy ending. We were all sitting around early PM, contemplating a stale sandwich lunch, when alas one of our 2 fishing lines started to splash up. Our first thought was Sargassa seaweed, but an intense Doug thought otherwise. He methodically pulled in a magnificent 10 lb yellow fin tuna. On the floor of the cockpit, Doug and Phillip turned that prize catch into juicy steaks of tuna fillets. Ellen and Roger then cooked up a special feast of ginger tuna, lightly seared with pepper and ginger, served on a bed of cous- cous and accompanied by a pear salad. Phillip reminded us that Neptune needed to be acknowledged, so the bottled of cherry was opened and a toast was celebrated.

The lights of Bermuda are showing at the horizon now; the end of another epic day.